The rise of early skincare: What’s happening and why it matters

Walk into any chemist or chain store and you’ll see it: entire walls of brightly coloured skincare aimed at 9–16 year-olds. Social media trends, such as “get ready with me” videos and skincare mini-hauls, have encouraged tweens and teens to start complex routines far earlier than previous generations. While helping young people care for their skin is a good thing, there’s a growing problem: many mass-market products are being marketed as “clean,” “gentle,” or “all natural,” while still containing questionable ingredients that may irritate young skin or disrupt the body over time.

Young skin is different.

The skin barrier in tweens and teens is still developing and can be more reactive. Hormones are changing. Acne can be triggered by harsh surfactants, stripping toners, synthetic fragrance, and heavy occlusives. Overusing active ingredients (strong acids, potent retinoids, aggressive scrubs) can damage the skin barrier, leading to redness, sensitivity, breakouts, or long-term issues like post-inflammatory pigmentation.

This is why the shift towards genuinely natural, transparent skincare matters now more than ever. Teens and tweens need fewer products, gentler formulas, and absolute clarity about what they’re putting on their skin.

The Transparency Gap: Marketing vs Reality

Many chain-store brands use buzzwords to sound safer or greener than they are. Common examples:

• “All natural ingredients” on the front label, but the INCI list includes synthetic preservatives, dyes, and undisclosed “parfum”.
• “Dermatologist tested” (which can mean almost anything and doesn’t guarantee safety for all skin types).
• “Hypoallergenic” (not a regulated term; allergens still appear in many such products).
• “Non-comedogenic” (not standardised; a product may still clog pores for many people).

Greenwashing is when a brand suggests eco-friendliness or natural purity without backing it up. Red flags to look our fo are:

1. Vague claims: “clean,” “green,” “toxin-free,” without certification or full disclosure.
2. Hidden fragrance blends: “fragrance” or “parfum” can be a mix of dozens of chemicals, including potential allergens or endocrine disruptors.
3. Cherry-picked ingredients: Spotlighting one botanical on the label while the base formula relies on cheap synthetics.

What “natural” should mean for young skin

Genuinely natural skincare prioritises:

• Clear, complete ingredient lists with plain-language explanations.
• Plant oils, butters, hydrosols, and botanical extracts that support the skin barrier.
• Gentle preservation systems that don’t rely on harsh or controversial agents.
• No synthetic fragrance or unnecessary colourants.
• pH-appropriate formulas designed for daily use on sensitive or breakout-prone skin.

For teens and tweens, the goal isn’t “anti-ageing” or extreme exfoliation. It’s skin health: balanced oil production, calm barrier, consistent hydration, and safe sun habits.

The Nasty Nine: What to avoid and how to spot them

Below are nine ingredient groups commonly used in skincare, cosmetic, and beauty products that have documented concerns. They often appear under multiple names, so use this as a guide when scanning labels.

Mineral oil and petroleum derivatives

• What it is: A byproduct of petrol distillation used to prevent water loss. Found in petroleum jelly, baby oil, many balms and ointments.
• Why avoid: Forms a film that can trap sweat and debris, potentially clogging pores and contributing to congestion and breakouts. Offers no nutrients or added skin benefits beyond occlusion.
• Watch for: Mineral Oil, Paraffinum Liquidum, Petrolatum, Liquid Paraffin, White Oil, Soft Paraffin, Microcrystalline Wax, Ceresin, Ozokerite.

Drying alcohols

• What they are: Volatile alcohols used for quick-drying, degreasing, and penetration enhancement. Often in toners, perfumes, setting sprays.
• Why avoid: Can strip natural oils, weaken the skin barrier, dehydrate, and increase sensitivity. Over time, may worsen redness and irritation.
• Avoid these: Alcohol Denat., SD Alcohol, Ethanol, Isopropyl Alcohol, Propanol, Propyl Alcohol, Benzyl Alcohol (in higher concentrations), Methanol.

Note: Fatty alcohols (Cetearyl, Cetyl, Stearyl) are different; in low, appropriate amounts they can be gentle emollients and emulsifiers.

Phthalates

• What they are: Plasticisers often used to make materials flexible and to fix scent in fragrances.
• Why avoid: Associated in research with endocrine disruption and other health concerns, often hidden within “fragrance” or “parfum”.
• Watch for: “Fragrance/Parfum” (unless the brand discloses a phthalate-free policy), DEP (Diethyl Phthalate), DBP (Dibutyl Phthalate), DEHP.

PEGs (polyethylene glycols) and related contaminants

• What they are: Used as thickeners, solvents, and penetration enhancers.
• Why avoid: Can be contaminated with impurities during manufacture. Penetration enhancement can increase absorption of other unwanted ingredients, particularly concerning on damaged or broken skin.
• Watch for: PEG- followed by a number (e.g., PEG-100 Stearate), PPG-, Polysorbate-20/60/80.

SLS and SLES (sulphates)

• What they are: Strong surfactants used for foaming and degreasing in cleansers, body washes, and shampoos.
• Why avoid: Can strip the skin’s natural lipids, disrupt the barrier, and trigger irritation, dryness, or flaking. For acne-prone or sensitive young skin, this can mean more breakouts and redness.
• Watch for: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS), Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES), Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate.

Parabens

• What they are: Preservatives used to prevent microbial growth and extend shelf life.
• Why avoid: Some parabens have been detected in human tissues and are under scrutiny for hormonal activity. Many families prefer to avoid them, especially for developing bodies.
• Watch for: Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Isopropylparaben.

Coal tar dyes and synthetic colourants

• What they are: Colour additives used in cosmetics, hair dyes, and some skincare.
• Why avoid: Some are linked to irritation or contain impurities. Not necessary in most skincare for teens.
• Watch for: CI + five-digit number, FD&C or D&C colours, p-Phenylenediamine (PPD) in hair dyes.

Silicones

• What they are: Film-formers used for slip and a silky feel, common in primers, long-wear products, and some sunscreens.
• Why avoid: Can trap debris and make congestion worse for those prone to acne; may slow natural cell turnover for some, leaving skin looking dull.
• Watch for: Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Trimethicone, Amodimethicone, ingredients ending in -cone, -conol, -silane, -siloxane.

Formaldehyde and formaldehyde-releasers

• What they are: Preservatives or preservative systems that release formaldehyde over time.
• Why avoid: Formaldehyde is a known allergen and has been classified as a carcinogen by international bodies. Also irritating for sensitive skin.
• Watch for: DMDM Hydantoin, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Diazolidinyl Urea, Quaternium-15, Bronopol (2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane-1,3-Diol), Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate.

How to decode labels and avoid greenwashing

Flip the bottle— the INCI list tells the real story, with ingredients listed mostly in order of concentration. Be cautious of catch-all “fragrance/parfum”; if a brand doesn’t disclose its fragrance components or clearly state “no phthalates” and “no synthetic fragrance,” assume it’s synthetic. Look for third-party certifications where relevant; while not perfect, they can help validate claims like cruelty-free, vegan, or natural origin. Shorter ingredient lists are often better for young skin because fewer potential irritants mean fewer chances of reactions. Above all, ask for full transparency—brands confident in their formulas will explain what each ingredient does.

Why natural matters specifically for teens and tweens

Put the barrier first—a healthy skin barrier prevents water loss, reduces redness, and helps control breakouts, and natural lipids like plant oils and butters tend to mimic skin’s own composition better than many synthetic occlusives. Reducing irritation is essential; cutting out harsh surfactants, drying alcohols, and synthetic fragrances helps stop the cycle of irritation leading to breakouts and then to even more products (and more irritation). During puberty, it’s also wise to err on the side of caution with preservatives, plasticisers, and undisclosed fragrance. Most importantly, learning to read labels early builds lifelong habits that prioritise health and the environment.

Common pitfalls in teen routines—and how to fix them

Pitfall: Over-cleansing and foaming cleansers that squeak the skin
Fix: Use a gentle, sulphate-free cleanser once daily (twice if very active/sweaty). Skin should feel soft, not tight.

Pitfall: Toners with alcohol or strong acids
Fix: If using a toner, choose an alcohol-free hydrating mist with soothing botanicals (chamomile, aloe, rose hydrosol). Keep acids mild and infrequent.

Pitfall: Heavy, pore-clogging occlusives
Fix: Choose lightweight, non-comedogenic plant oils (squalane from olives, jojoba, hemp seed) and water-based gels with glycerin and aloe.

Pitfall: Fragranced everything
Fix: Fragrance-free or naturally scented with disclosed essential oils in low concentrations. Patch test first.

Pitfall: Too many actives at once
Fix: Introduce one new product at a time. For acne, start with a gentle BHA once or twice weekly or natural alternatives like willow bark, then adjust.

Building a simple, safe routine for young skin

Morning

• Cleanse: Gentle, sulphate-free cleanser or just lukewarm water if skin is dry/sensitive.
• Hydrate: Light serum or gel with glycerin, hyaluronic acid of appropriate molecular weight, aloe, or panthenol.
• Moisturise: Light cream or gel-cream with jojoba/squalane and ceramide-supportive ingredients.
• Protect: Broad-spectrum mineral sunscreen SPF 30+ (zinc oxide), fragrance-free.

Evening

• Cleanse: Gentle cleanser. If wearing sunscreen/makeup, try a single-step mild cleanser or a light oil cleanse followed by a gel cleanser.
• Treat (optional 2–3 nights/week): Mild BHA (salicylic) or natural willow bark for congestion. Avoid mixing with strong retinoids for young teens unless advised by a professional.
• Moisturise: As per morning, adjust richness based on skin feel.

Spot care

• Use targeted spot treatments sparingly. Natural options include clay masks on T-zone or single pimples; look for sulfur, zinc PCA, or tea tree in low concentrations.

Body and scalp

• Choose sulphate-free washes and shampoos. For ingrowns or body acne, use gentle BHA washes a few times a week rather than daily.

Sensitive areas and intimate care

• Avoid fragrance, dyes, strong acids. If using a balm for intimate dryness or chafing, choose products with clearly listed natural oils and butters; patch test.

Perfume tips for teens

• Traditional alcohol-based perfumes can be drying and irritating. Natural perfume creams or low-alcohol sprays made with essential oils (used responsibly and diluted) are gentler. Always patch test and avoid known sensitising oils on compromised skin.

How to talk to teens about “results”

It’s important to weigh immediate gratification against long-term skin health—a product that stings or leaves skin feeling “tight” might look matte for a few hours but can damage the barrier and lead to more breakouts later. Consistency beats intensity; a simple, gentle routine followed every day will deliver clearer, calmer skin over time. And beware of viral hacks like toothpaste on pimples, DIY lemon scrubs, or undiluted essential oils—these can inflame the skin and cause pigmentation.

Questions to ask before buying

• Does the brand fully list all ingredients and explain them?
• Is there synthetic fragrance or “parfum” on the label?
• Are there sulphates (SLS/SLES), drying alcohols, or parabens?
• Is the formula appropriate for a young skin barrier (not overloaded with strong actives)?
• Is there evidence of third-party recognition or a clear no-nasties policy?

Safer swaps at a glance

• Mineral oil → plant oils (jojoba, squalane, almond, hemp seed) and plant butters (shea, cocoa) in appropriate textures.
• SLS/SLES cleansers → sulphate-free surfactants like coco-glucoside, decyl glucoside.
• Synthetic fragrance → fully disclosed essential oil blends in low concentration—or fragrance-free.
• Heavy silicones → aloe-based gels, light esters from natural sources, or silicone-free primers.

When to see a professional

• Persistent, cystic, or painful acne
  Sudden, unexplained rashes or hives
  Eczema flares, severe dryness, or broken skin
  Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation not improving

A note on balance and evidence

“Natural” doesn’t automatically guarantee safety—poison ivy is natural too. The key is thoughtful formulation, suitable concentrations, and transparency. Conversely, not all synthetics are harmful. The point for teens and tweens is to avoid known irritants and controversial ingredients, reduce fragrance and harsh surfactants, and build healthy habits.

What parents can do

• Read labels together and discuss why certain ingredients are avoided.
• Start with the basics: cleanse, moisturise, SPF. Add targeted treatments only if needed.
• Patch test new products on the inner arm or behind the ear for 24–48 hours.
• Keep routines and product counts minimal—skin doesn’t need a 10-step regimen at 12 years old.

Key takeaways

Teens and tweens are starting skincare earlier than ever, but many mass‑market products lean on marketing rather than transparency. Greenwashing is common, so learn to read the INCI list and question vague claims. The Nasty Nine—mineral oil, drying alcohols, phthalates, PEGs, SLS/SLES, parabens, coal tar dyes, silicones, and formaldehyde‑releasers—are best avoided for developing skin. Choose simple, gentle, truly natural products that support the skin barrier and skip undisclosed fragrance. Educate early, keep routines minimal, and seek professional help for stubborn concerns.